''The Louisburg Famine Walk''

This Walk organised by Afri has taken place every year since 1988 on the last Saturday of May in West Mayo. It starts ten miles from the village of Louisburg at Doolough on the Leenane Road and goes into Louisburg via the Doolough Valley, following a narrow road which flanks moody mountains nearby. It commemorates the walk that the beleagured folk and denizens of County Mayo took in 1849 during the height of the Irish Famine - they were sent to Delphi Lodge ten miles away to receive food, were denied entrance and had to turn back; during which many fell by the roadside; a similiar scene which was replicated and visited in many parts of Ireland, especially in 'Black '47'.

But what makes this Walk special, is that every year a representative of the Choctaw Indians - a Native American nation - comes on the walk; this is a unique continuance of an Irish/Choctaw connection since that time - an unbroken continuum......... It was during the Great Irish Famine in the aforesaid 'Black '47', that these Choctaw upon hearing of this cataclysm where so moved, they collected 710 Dollars and sent it here. Having endured 'The Trail of Tears' in 1831 - their own Famine - they knew exactly how the beleagured Irish felt!

This year's walk was particularly moving as a man from the Niger Delta also came to demonstrate his solidarity and remembrance of the Famine Walk; thus forging a cross cultural/ethnic dimension to it all.
The Walk itself is tough but how tiring, depends on your fitness, but it's  well worth doing and immensely rewarding; you'll feel renewed and reinvigorated as if having done a Pilgrimage; in addition, I also found it incredibly moving. Just after the start, you'll pass by an evocative stone memorial to those who fell there on that day! It is imperative to stop here, reflect, ponder, and contemplate. I myself did a small prayer and invocatory poem. But at least honour it with your presence and silence!

http://www.thefullwiki.org/Doolough_Tragedy

'The Louisburg Famine Walk' is one of those 'events' that one has to do at least once in one's lifetime, much like climbing the mountain of Croagh Patrick on Reek Sunday, at the end of July; whether Irish, of Irish roots or ancestry, or just a history lover, a serial walker or a visitor to Ireland looking for, a profound experience to take with you, it's a challenge that needs to be encountered and experienced! On the way, you'll see some enchanting mountains, a deeply beautiful but desolate landscape and in the howling winds, you can almost hear the sighs of the Banshee and the spirits of the hungry ones!!

“Queen Maeve’s Cairn, Knocknarea”:

Heroic tales and sagas vast
and courtly chiefs in their prime
The glory of the Tain's epic cast
and Cooley’s bull, remnants of time,
kindled I to climb hard and fast
slopes o' Knocknarea's trail,
moulded legends in their cast:
where myths are ne'er frail;
dreams bristled where flowers wave
Connacht’s Queen of Cruachan’s dale –
the warrior Queen Maeve –
laid under the moon's silver brail,
a giant cairn atop her grave?
A mound luted in mystery
entombs the heroine of history!

What pride of place for Ierne
in majesty of height, noble bearing,
with stone steep such stacking cairn -
Connacht’s Gaels, loyal and daring.
A monument built by clans and septs
defies like the horses' bit;
cloudbursts of pride dancing their sets
in the steps of stones are lit;
so great a mound this pilgrim found
such strength, toil and sage-like wit,
some noble lying on hallowed ground
to the immortal moons suffuse
atop Queen Maeve’s cairn my tears take muse……

20/7/2002



The Bardic Searcher standing on top of Queen Maeve's Cairn with Coney Island in the background.

 Footnote: Queen Maeve was the legendary Queen of Connacht who lead the Cattle Raid of Cooley, culminating at the Cooley Peninsula in County Louth - the 'Tain' - that epic from Gaelic mythology. It's said her quest for the mythical Brown Bull of Cooley was inspired by a bet she had with her husband, Ailill, as to, who had the most possessions! The Cairn itself (one of the largest, if not the largest in the province of Connacht) sits on top of Knocknarea mountain, offering spectacular views of the whole peninsula and both Coney Island and Carrowmore megalithic cemetery in the near distance!

Further footnote: Cruachan is in County Roscommon, a neighbouring county to County Sligo, where Knocknarea is. Cruachan was Queen Maeve's seat and also the seat of the Connacht royals, notably the O'Connor's.

www.stonepages.com

www.megalithomania.com

www.carrowkeel.com

''The Linen Hall Library''

'The Linen Hall Library', is my favourite place in Belfast. Located just across from the City Hall in the City Centre, it's truly one of the jewels of Beal Feirste. Founded in 1792 by the 'United Irishman' Thomas Russell, it has connections with the aforesaid United Irishmen (this was the time when Belfast was known as ''The Athens of Ireland") and it was also in that year that the 'Harpists of Ireland' actually met and assembled within its walls - no mere claim to fame in itself! But before I continue, I'd like to talk about its founder, Thomas Russell; often called 'The Man from God knows where', because 'though a very captivating personality - who was hanged outside Downpatrick jail - he had an air of mysticism and could never be pinned down, so to speak! He defied caricature and stereotyping; he was very much an enigmatic character. But one thing that can be stated with certainty and moulded in stone is his vast intellect and his great pedigree as a Bibliophile! It's this, which is most striking about the Library itself: the tremendous archive of books it has, on History, Mythology, Antiquarian studies, Folklore etc which indisputably does justice to Russell's memory. One can obtain a Guest's pass and stay there as long as one wishes; I normally stay there all day and the time just wiles away...... Apart from this, architecturally, it's a lovely building and truly has history in the walls!! And finally, it has a very nice cafe/restaurant. If after visiting Belfast, you miss the 'Linen Hall Library', you have missed one of its authentic gems, much like when exploring a mystery you get to the outer shell but never get to the kernel of it! The Library is simply unmissable.

''Wicklow Jail''

Located in the county town of the county known generically, as 'The Garden of Ireland', this jail built in 1702, is yet another intriquing Irish prison with history, anecdotes, substance brimming from its walls, like a violinist with many strings to his bow!

It has been at the heart of events in Irish history like the 1798 rebellion of the United Irishmen, the 'Great Irish Famine', the 'holding area' for many poor souls about to be transported to Tasmania in the 'New World' for the merest misdemeanour like sheep stealing!

The period 1798/1803, saw many of Wicklow's rebel's spend time there. People like General Holt, Billy Byrne, Napper Tandy and it's also associated with the heroine Anne Devlin (Robert Emmet's noble and selfless servant, who never betrayed him!) and it's this part I'd like to talk about. Possibly two of the cells are haunted - one of which, Anne Devlin frequented when visiting her father, whilst held there after the 1798 rebellion.

It was whilst I was in this cell on a visit that, I had a very strange experience; my hand went numb and I got the feeling something like a needle was being inserted into it! Given the harrowing history of the place, the concomitant sorrow that was imbued in that cell particularly, could I have picked up on something? Perhaps Anne Devlin did knitting or embroidery when visiting the cell in the pre-1803 period?

The Jail is well worth visiting (the yard is an additional interest!) and if nothing else, be intriqued and mindful when visiting the haunted cells. Wicklow Jail is yet another doorway into Ireland's sad and heart rending history and the feature of Wicklow town!

''James Joyce - most revolutionary writer of the 20th century''

The novel, Ulysees, published in 1922, has been claimed to have changed the face of literature and to have revolutionised the novel in the 20th Century. The book is set on the day of June 16, 1904, and chronicles a day in the life of Leopold Bloom - a Jew - as he goes wandering around his native Dublin, much akin to the Greek epic, The Odyssey of Ulysees (Odysseus) from whom the novel takes its name. Joyce through the voice of Bloom, outlines the history of the Irish race, Ireland, Dublin, its streets, its sites, the commercial nexus of the city, its pulse, its epicentre, its veins and arteries; in essence, every component and part of the fabric of Dublin - of its topography - in voluminous detail. James Joyce's research and erudition is truly awesome (he studied the old ‘Thom's Directories' and detailed maps for years, which gave him this colossal knowledge). Herein lies the power and the influence of Ulysees: Joyce changed fundamentally the structure of the novel, he used no punctuation, to give it an uninterrupted flow - known as 'Streams of consciousness'; the wordplay and punning is infinite, done in a totally unique way. To cite but one example, Bloom breaks up the word Castile into cast steel and turns it into a punning joke: What do a Spanish Opera and Gibraltar have in common? Rows of Cast steel (Castile). It's these innovative verbalisings, fusions of linguistic expressions and colloquialisms, its encyclopaedic knowledge, which makes it one of the most influential novels that literature has ever been bequeathed. All that one ever wanted to know about Dublin and indeed Ireland, its history, its people, its culture, its idiosyncracies, its charms, its contradictions, its betrayals, its heartaches, can be found here narrated through the medium of Leopold Bloom in one solitary day. Small wonder that June 16, has been immortalised in the annual calendar as ‘Bloomsday'. Ulysees is totally unique, a pioneering work in English literature produced by an Irish writer in exile, which contains a wealth of information, linguistic flair, a descriptive genius, an intricate awareness of the layout of Dublin, its heartbeats, its resonances, its good and bad, its charm. James Joyce gave the world a modern odyssey of his native Dublin; indeed, Ireland as a whole could claim him as a great exponent of Irish genius! >

''The Hitler family's connections to Ireland''

A piece of quirky and interesting trivia is the fact that one of the most famous hotels in Dublin - the Shelbourne hotel, St Stephen's Green - has connections to the family of Adolf Hitler! Around 1910, the brother of ADOLF HITLER - Alois - worked there as a waiter; he had been sent there by an agency in England. It was whilst in Dublin, that he met an Irish lady called Brigid Dowling, at a Travel Fair; she fell in love instantly with this debonair, polished, smooth as teak sophisticate, who was posing as an inveterate traveller/adventurer of the world! From hence began a most interesting story! They duly married after a quickfire, whirwind romance, which would leave any Danielle Steele or Mills and Boons romance in the shade and went to reside in Liverpool, England.

Brigid Dowling herself claimed she met Adolf at their Liverpool home in subsequent years, having partaken in the felicity of a game of cards! From this union between Elizabeth and Alois, a son was born whom they christianed William Patrick Hitler! And this boy went on to lead a very interesting life indeed: first going to Germany, meeting his infamous uncle - whom at first he loved and cherished - then left for the US, having become antagonistic towards Adolf, ending up in the US Navy during the second world war!

So, the reputable Shelbourne Hotel, which has seen many famous personalities stay within its lush and salubrious interiors, was the starting point for a most compelling and little known saga: Ireland - Dublin - and the Hitler connection. Yet another reason why Ireland - and Dublin - are full of surprises waiting like the dropping of a hat around every corner....

''Tara is not just a hill!''

"Sweet Tara, may your heart preserve thee":

Oh sacred soul of Eriu's glades
holy hill with wisdom sage
sweet prophetess on the pilgrim's way -
Royal Meath's sweet repose.

Oh Tara beloved maiden -
still shine in eternal splendour!
Hill suffused in healing ministry -
its halo a fountain of love

Of the consciousness of the Gael
you are the true portal;
your mounds and boughs and barrows
heaving treasures of earth's arrows.

Hill adorned with green bastions
her fertile riches the temple of Danu;
beloved Tara whose glory confounds
as India's laws of Manu!
You're ageless like Fodhla's fruits -
the pantheon of High Hings' classical.

Sacred Schrine in the House of Royals
the mother Goddess at love's zenith.
Oh Hill of Tara! Oh holy Tara!
your mounds and barrows blest!

Psychic spirit resting mo chara -
a time tablet of Eriu's smiles
Oh motherland of nature's pilgrims
Sweet Tara! may your heart preserve thee!

The Mound of the Hostages, Tara Hill - second oldest astronomical observatory in the world

Footnote: Tara, County Meath, is the socalled ancient capital of Ireland. But alas the Tara Landscape, i.e. the Tara/Skyrne Valley, has been destroyed and plundered to make way for a two tolled motorway!! (http://www.savetara.com/      http://www.tarawatch.org/) Over 70 major archaeological sites were destroyed - 40 of which were new including the site of Lismullen astronomical Henge (one of the top ten discoveries in the world in 2007!); a gala complex of souterrains at Roestown, about which or its purpose, we'll never know now, Collierstown - very possibly and probably the burial grave of the Na Fianna Warriors killed at the Battle of Gabhra in 280; Baronstown ceremonial grave - the probable feasting ground and meeting place for the Harpists of Ireland, according to the Dindseanchas; and the gallows site of 1798 - Soldier's Hill, which is now the interchange; the searing of the outer extremity of the remarkable promontory fort, Rath Lugh etc

Further footnotes:
Tara Hill - which is the centre of this landscape - is where 142 High Kings of Ireland were inaugurated.
Danu is ancient Ireland's most famous Goddess and was the principal deity of the Tuatha De Danaan, the mythical people of ancient Ireland.
Fodhla (representing justice) is one of the triple Goddesses of the Tuatha De Danaan: Eriu, Banba accompany Fodhla, who it's believed welcomed the Milesians (the Gaelic people) when they arrived here.

The Gabhra River and lovely quaint bridge - about the only pristine part left of the Tara/Skryne Valley

www.skryne.com 

''The wisdom of ancient Irish Pagan sites!''

The many hues of Brigid

From the bowels of mother earth, the Goddess Brigid, is restless as a ship at sea. Her birthplace at Faughart, Co Louth, where her well is believed to be, and her last place of abode, Cill Dara, are like lost children in a land cut from its roots. Brigid the great initiator of the re-birth and awakening of nature, the great shepherdess reaping the seeds of fruitfulness, of bounty, of bliss, of maternity, of fertility, of harvest time, the foundress of the fountain of everlasting life, when Spring rises up from the caverns of winter, is bewailing the sad plight of Eireann's heritage and its vernal, vibrant, verdant swathes, all abused by man's brutal, ruthless avarice; stamped and trod upon by the tyrannical ploughshare of modern man's heretical ways. Her face is now lined and cracked, weary from lamentation - a silhouette of the earth's stricken sphere being eaten up by the licentious Leviathan. Brigid the great patron of the Arts, whose great foundry could smelt the driest and weakest iron into action; into a charger of creativity, of miraclulous wonders, of prodigious plenty; whose forge was the source, the provenance of all that was good, beneficient in its loving kindness, the positive protectress, the benevolent particle of truth, is waiting patiently in the shadows, in the underbrush, in the chasms of the underworld for our call, our deepest supplication for her to light our way again; to ignite the fires of wisdom, enlightenment, clarity, and clasp us in her loving embrace. Brigid the silversmith in the effulgent freshness of sweet creation, her anvil - the anvil of infinite creativity, a spark for the beauteous saga of Gaelic Ireland, a time when Eireann was in its prime; the halcyon horizon was in her smile - her vivacious being. The sweet silversmith of holiness; her mind cleaving to the highest murmurings of life, creation and mystery - her great and auspicious time - is nearing and fast approaching! Will we welcome the great Brigid again and bow to her chaste and noble sublimity, like honourable knights of old; hear her lament in the wilds of Connemara, in the winds of Antrim's Glens, in the shrill bellowings of the great Atlantic Ocean and the Irish Sea like Manannan of old, demanding that we respect the mother, the great nurturer and stop her wanton violation now? Time is of the essence; if we don't heed her lament now, dear mother earth and the once, pristine kaleidoscope of Eireann's green baize, will be interminably damaged and Brigid will become dumb and mute in the crazed cacophony of modern man.. Footnote: not only does Brigid have associations with Faughart - as the previous blog - but Kildare and Kildare town, in particular as well!

''Faughart, Co Louth''

"Lonely rests Edward the Bruce":

On the Hill of Faughart
in a grave on Oriel's banks,
'mid sacred springs and a Holy Well
is a lonely headstone scarce known;
by yonder wall and sleeping shade
lies a noble Scots king!

On Faughart Hill by Northern Gap
where legend, history, myth invest,
the stalwart of freedom's maze
Edward the Bruce does rest;
by Cooley, Gullion, Dundalk Bay,
the medieval Scots Knight strode;
like a warrior fell from Saxon swell
his ineffable pain last breath bestrode -
on Faughart lies the Celtic king!

The Grave of Edward the Bruce, Faughart, County Louth 

Footnotes: Faughart Hill is a place steeped in history and myth! Overlooking the mythical Gap of the        north, which in our legends, was the site of Cuchulainn's exploits during the epic, 'An Tain' ('Cattle raid of Cooley'), it was also the staging post during the Elizabethan Wars of an affray between the Gaelic Earls and Lord Mountjoy; the aforementioned Gap is also in the vicinity of Moyra Pass. Stand in the cemetery and look around in four compass directions: to the east is Dundalk Bay and the Cooley Peninsula (where there have been more Faery sightings reports than any other part of Ireland), to the west is county Monaghan, to the south, the sweeping plains of the wee county - in ancient lore called the Plains of Muirthemne, and to the north, Jonesborough mountain and the Plains of Macha.

The Graveyard itself has the reputed remains of the aforesaid Edward the Bruce, who according to tradition, was brutally killed near here during the Battle of Faughart in 1318 by the forces of Edward Longshanks; the reputed Holy Well of the famous and venerable St Brigid and the townland itself is believed to be her birthplace! Faughart is a sacred, vibrant and rich part of Ireland's North East!

''Donegal town's feature attraction''

"Donegal Abbey":

Sacred Scribes soul-searching
the riddle of the chronicles
sagas of time and epochs
like loyal servants of learning;
four masters huddled to truth:
the scroll of the hollowed heart
seasoned by scholars in lonely craft
- the perpetual plough of Annals words!

Exalted quills, quenched dry parchments,
the ink whose flow ne'er parched;
annals embossed in zealous surge:
four monks in a labour of love
of acts, deeds, paths, like shoulders straight
- their lineage signed in brotherhood.
Oh golden age of Michael O'Cleirigh
sweet abode where Annals were born!
August abbey of the Four Masters
you stand like a Knight of our heritage!

2003

''The most photographed Dolmen in Ireland''

"Poulnabrone Dolmen":

Immortal resident of the Burren earth
complex stones of unbroken time
with Capstone of downhill slope
for Sun to ski and reflect;
What stars draped you at birth
when dawn was nymph-new
and twilight's trance waltzed in?

Poulnabrone Dolmen an unbroken stem
in a glitter of Burren limestone
No tenant dweller encamped there
but time's perpetual aeons danced bright
as a rugged legionnaire!
Your story is a canopy of stone
from Neolithic farmer, the Fir Bolg,
to Milesian, Danaan and Gael.

Ancient treasure on a mystic's plain
a fire brand on a rugged carpet
Portal Tomb like a defiant bone
impaled on the bare Burren;
What enigma's fire ignite
from the matching of your stones
A bridge to a different time
or a world past Heaven's horizon?
Oh energy source vibrating there
you illuminate the Burren of Clare!
August 2003

''Dollymount Strand - the apex of Dublin Bay''

The sea from Dollymount Strand

The mystic clamour of creation
is in the onrushing tide
it is a din that gently curves
the soul of man wisely chides;
'tis where the ancient Irish kind
is pressing near its force
when primordial waters flowed
and from whence all life its course,
was shaped and shone as one;
the onward rhythm of each
timed and measured surge -
a metaphor for the quest of man,
the riddle of the pirate's purge
which braves the dirge and clan.

A giant chasm its heart opens
for the world o' free living
part soul mother of creation
and cruel destroyer in its giving;
all winsome waves and crashing bolts,
under moody skies forgiving;
can charm like Summer's colts
the pauper's mind in dark moon's feast,
or take life at its command -
a giant cavern with voice fleeced:
its complex heart like open hand;
a confessor to the crowd
message combing its deep secrets;
the sea breaks out of its mystic shroud
with baffling waves dexterity
its soul empties for posterity!
13/9/2002

''The Aran Islands and JM Synge''

"The Well of the Saints":

Wishing wells and Druids spells
and land of milk and honey,
led by Atlantic's tolling bells
and Pilgrim's way flat and stony;
tasted I Synge's literary shells
and passed the Well of Saints:
the four Saints of the swell -
Celtic runes do not taint;
paid their dues at the holy well -
windy sighs have restraint.
So my face cleansed in the well
with water pure, clear and quaint;
a riverbank of hope in the dell
servant renewed from cloud's constraint
and the prosaic tides carousel;
so prayed I at Aran's grotto
and took a stone for love's memento.....

Footnote: The Well of the Saints is a Holy Well on the largest of the Aran Islands, Inis Mor, which has great connections with Ireland's fine playwright, JM Synge (perhaps one of the 20th century's finest dramatists). It is a beautiful well, at which I felt totally renewed after visiting it!

''Glendalough: idyllic panoplies''

One of the most enchanting places in Ireland is surely Glendalough, Co Wicklow - part of the county known as the 'Garden of Ireland.' Nestled between some of the Wicklow mountains and part of the Wicklow national park, like an intersection or galactic epicentre, with its ornate centrepiece being undoubtedly the lake itself. For tranquility, special energy, panoramic vistas of immense beauty, the place could claim to rival any courter of the muses! And is thus an extremely pleasant 'get away' from the turgidity of modern living.

But the history of the place is perhaps what it's best known for: established by St Kevin in the 6th century as a monastic settlement - subsequently city - as a refuge or bastion of solitude away from the encroaching and wily ways of the material world, it was his chosen place - a type of otherworld for temporal dreams and visions. From such a small and humble beginning, it flowered into one of the most important Ecclesiastical and monastic sites of Ireland and today is one of her great totems of heritage and tourist attractions!
The college was particularly important, with the city that sprung up, enclosing around seven churches and hence there were seven churches to be seen. Still to be seen is the majestic Round Tower, the one here rising like a great pencil to the sky.

It also has an infinite number of walks, hikes for the nature lover and an abundance of wildlife, birds, that will astound you and when leaving, will render you totally crestfallen at departing from the place where St Kevin touched the heavens!

"At Glendalough, my senses take fire"

At Glendalough drowns delirium
in enchantment of the senses
nature's sacred emporium
its spring of hope, nerve tenses,
muses of the monastic forum,
like handshakes recompense

Where Kevin on its pebbles
stumbled 'pon great boulders,
the sun's reflection on cobbles
the lake's shadow it solders;
of solitude life's utopia:
Evergreen, Hazel, Oak, Alder,
spirit, solace, virtue, cornucopia!

Glendalough your drowning dispenses
in soft elopements, foam fresh,
as harmony's gourd condenses
in a gentle greeting in the flesh;
poetic suns, pale russets,
birds in summers sweetest feis;
3D vistas cinematic assets:
Thrush, Sparrow, Chaffinch, Lark,
and wildlife like the Buzzard;
Wicklow's mountains, Ireland's green park,
betwixt the Faery Witch and wizard
in the Glen casts away feelings dark
Oh Glendalough I bid you hark!

Wilde wonders and Irish blood suckers!

Ever wondered where Bram Stoker got his inspiration for his classic book, 'Dracula'? Look at the roll call of Irish Gothic writers in the nineteenth century and you won't be far wrong. 'Twas in the year 1871, that the gothic giant Sheridan Le Fanu - whose generic nickname was 'The Invisible Prince' - published a novella called 'Carmilla' - a Lesbian Vampire tale! Le Fanu and Stoker would have known each other quite well and they also would have mingled with Charles Maturin (a grand uncle of Oscar Wilde and here begins the Wildean connection!) - whose first published work had the bone shaker of a title, 'The Ghost and the Bone setter'. Perhaps the inspiration for all of them, was actually No 1 Merrion Square - now known as 'Wilde House'. Yes, the home of the Wilde family, for it was whilst here during Lady Wilde's Saturday Afternoon Salons, that they would have heard stories about the mythical Irish blood sucker called the 'Dearg Due'. Perhaps these literary get togethers - which had the cream of Dublin's philosophical fraternity - were the source for both Le Fanu and ultimately, Stoker! You can never beat the Irish!!

''Casino Marino''

Located in the grounds where the Fire Brigade Training Institute is, in North East Dublin, this building is an architectural and cultural gem. For anyone who loves style, grandeur, quaint charms, this place is right up your street! Built for a man, Lord Charlemont, who had just done a grand tour of Europe in the mid 1700’s and who wanted a grand view of Dublin Bay (the name Marino coming from the Italian, little sea), it is a real jewel. It has an amazing, narrow, winding stairway, some fabulous rooms, all of which you can see, an amazingly laid out and designed dining room with a lovely decor. The architect knew his job! But what makes it appealing and attractive to the general public is, it’s like something that you would dream up in your greatest fantasy - like a dream home!! The tour guides are very informative, personable and give a good tour of the place. This is well worth a visit - the Casino of Marino is a hidden jewel!

''In the midst of the Boyne Valley''

The Francis Ledwidge museum is a very good tribute and testimony to the life of this talented and scarcely known poet, who can rightly be described as the poet of the Boyne Valley. The museum is located in his cottage birthplace, just east of Slane on the Drogheda Road. Through exhibits of photos, texts of his poems, memorabilia, it narrates the life, works and poetry of Francis Ledwidge. It is a heartwarming place to visit - in the Unesco world heritage Boyne Valley - which does justice to the memory of the poet. In addition, it gives an insight into his motivations, his muse, why he joined the first World War, his short life, and his lovely romantic nature poetry. You will leave having been illuminated by the talent of Ledwidge, who was cut down in the trenches of Belgium.

''Musings for tourists again''

You may not be a church lover or think visiting a church is something for the morbid or nerdy type; if that is you, I challenge you to visit this church and be pleasantly surprised! Firstly, it has a rich history brimming with historical lore and entertaining and whimsical incidences which would almost amount to a chapter in themselves in a book of nostalgia and memories. The place where Ireland’s revolutionary, Wolfe Tone was married; where Oscar Wilde and Bram Stoker crossed paths - Oscar Wilde’s girlfriend at the time met Stoker there and ditched Oscar on the spot; and most recently where Nelson Mandela gave a speech.

But its the general design and layout which is so quaint and aesthetically pleasing; it features behind the altar, the curious and lovely place called 'The Bread Shelf’. There is always a loaf of bread here for a hungry person who needs it; this has been a continuous thread since the 1700s. It is also famous for some Gospel concerts in the evening where the great Ballymun Gospel choir and some great North American Gospel impresarios have appeared. Hear them belting out Jackie Wilson, Paul Robeson, Bob Marley and many others. St Ann’s church is a jewel with many diadems to its name. Oh and don’t miss its very nice coffee shop!

The Ballymun Gospel Choir in full voice and splendour - this gig had a 15 Euro admission but was well worth it!

''Dublin's charms''

This church - St Audeon's church of Ireland - is actually the oldest Parish church in Dublin; has the quirky coincidence of being next door to another St Audeon’s which is Catholic. Anyway… It has a very nice park within its grounds, has at least two hauntings withing its grounds - not to mention the clergyman who guards a wee monument, I'll mention in a moment - and to the rear, one can see part of the Old City Wall of Dublin - from medieval times. Of course, it is centred in the heart of Old Dublin, at the juncture of the Liberties etc. But housed in the Church - in the porch area - is a very unusual artefact which few people know about. It is called 'The Lucky Stone’ - a rival of the very famous Blarney Stone! But this is a stone with a difference! Dating from the middle ages, it was believed to be a kind of head stone of a religious cleric buried in the graveyard but it is the legend that has grown up around it, that’s most interesting. In the middle ages, merchant traders and business men would come to it as a daily ritual to elicit luck from its stony mass. Despite being the victim of theft, strangely disappearing on a number of occasions to God knows where, even falling off a horse, when someone tried to take off with it, it has still mysteriously turned up in St Audeon’s - come rain or hail - and has now remained there since being retrieved for the last time circa 1830 by that famous antiquarian priest, Father John Spratt - its true home! Legend says that you merely rub off it, instead of kissing it! St Audeon’s church is one of Dublin’s most charming and interesting churches which offers you a free guided tour of its site - a stone’s throw from Christchurch.

''The longest pub in Ireland''

This pub, on Blackhorse Avenue, is a gem of Dublin and is the longest pub in Ireland! It’s long, gallery-like layout giving it an intimate feeling, as if one is in a cave of some sort; with nice decor, nice bar design, staff and indeed food! But what makes it a rare collector’s item - an unknown and hidden jewel - is the origin of its name: it actually acquires its name because in bygone eras, the British Army, in order to have a pint, would climb or clamber through a hole in the wall of the herculean Phoenix Park (outside of which, the pub is located!) And still today this quirky fact and amusing way of access is still there to be sampled and negociated…This pub is an unmissable piece of heritage and history and pub design woven into one. Have a peep in the hole in the wall!!

''Irish pub's - lasting character''

'The Patriot Inn' is an Historical pub par excellence in a very old part of Dublin - Kilmainham, around one of the seven Liberties. The pub has an unchanged feel about it, a timelessness, hasn’t encountered the vicissitudes of many pubs. It’s also been a witness to Irish history, just beside the famous Kilmainham jail, now a museum; has been part of many historical events, which revolved around the prison. The very real signs of this are evident, when you walk in - the walls are adorned with some original and unique photos - b & w’s of many of those very events. It could be described as a real photo gallery of Ireland's past. Whether history buff or not, this pub has the credentials of an Irish pub - character - for which there's no substitute!

As a footnote, the fact that the pub is sited at what was known in the 1700's as Gallow's Hill - where a Gallows was sited - makes it even more appropriate. Not only does it have history within its walls but history all around and without!

www.patriotsinn.com

''Howth's wonder''

Howth Head

The Summit or Howth Head is a place of great serenity and tranquility. At the furthest point of Howth Peninsula - which has one third of the total of Ireland’s flora - the Summit has been the haunt of many people throughout the ages and still today gets its hikers, families on Sundays, nature and wildlife lovers, etc. The
Lighthouse - the Bailey Lighthouse - moved from its original position, is a famous landmark and is a perpetual
beacon welcoming sea travellers on the Ferry coming into Dun Laoghaire or was the last bright spark for many a soul who left the old sod never to return; its famous light would flash as if ensuring that the flame of memory would reside deep in their heart forever.

The Summit Walk going along the Cliff face with the Baily Lighthouse in the distance

To gaze out over Dublin Bay and see the many vistas unveil themselves before your eyes is an uplifting event. Follow in the footsteps of those for whom it has acted as a muse - literary giant James Joyce used it as his setting in some of his literary works, notably Molly Bloom's soliloquy; in particular, Ireland’s Nobel Laureate WB Yeats, whilst he lived in Howth (Balscadden House) in the 1880’s was known to use it. Moreover, Brendan Behan called it the "Healthiest place in Ireland". So drink in its sweet air, behold its views, follow in the footsteps of scores of souls through the continuum of time, and feel the ancient poetic essence of the place as they have done.

Balscadden House - the home of WB Yeats in the 1880's; at the start of the climb to the summit.

www.howthismagic.com

''Hidden gems of Dublin''

'The Furry Glen': A lovely, enchanting Glen, in the far corner of the awesome Phoenix Park. The Glen is an idyllic wee place, to go with the family on a nice sunny day. You’ll see sprite-like fleet footed squirrels going creepy crawly and other nice furry creatures and wildlife IF YOU'RE LUCKY! There is also a tiny bat called a Pipistrelle in the vicinity - weighing a gargantuan 5 mg; 'though I've yet to see it (I'll have to take residence in the Park, I think!). The Glen is yet another piece in the fabric, that is the Phoenix Park; it claims its own niche. Oh and there was even a ballad written to immortalise it. Yet another hidden gem in the great expanse of the Phoenix Park.

Approaching the Furry Glen from the reservoir type pond.

Knockmary Cromleck:

A Cist Grave located beside the Park Ranger's Lodge ( the Park Ranger has lived there for over 30 years - wow! - a very endearing and approachable man). There was a second grave found beside Chapelizod Gate, which was moved to Dublin Zoo. According to the Park Ranger, the human remains were taken away from the graves - as to where they were taken, your guess is as good as mine! This one is very idylically located in a beautiful place beside the Lodge and directly across from the Cara Cheshire Home. It has lovely vantage points all round. And I love to have a meditation beside it and have my lunch there!

This is demonstrative proof that the Park has been inhabited from neolithic times. According to local Dublin mythology, the Fir Bolg settled in the vicinity of the Park. So a hidden attraction within the nature reserve and green haven, that is the Phoenix Park!

Knockmary Cromleck with trees in background and Lodge Fence to the left.

''The essence of WB Yeats''

'Yeat's Memorial Buiding': If you want to do a tour of Yeats Country, then this is the place to start. Run by the volunteers of the Yeats Society, you will be initiated into the essence of Ireland’s famous poet laureate. See original manuscripts of his poems, rare and seminal photos of the poet, his relatives and his beloved Sligo. Feel your pulse racing to the heartbeat and hypnotic rhythm of his profound verse; feel the cream of the wordsmith’s rhymes inebriate you like the bubbling waterfalls of Glencar or the rich summit of a pint of Guinness. Start your journey here and maybe the Faery will take you by the hand to the mythical Tir na Nog of ancient Ireland.

www.sligotourism.com

''The heart and soul of Ireland''

'Hill of Uisneach': If you want to get to the heart and soul of Ireland, you must visit this place - about five miles east of Ballymore on the way to Mullingar. In many ways, it is the twin of the more famous Hill of Tara. Its main feature is the most unusual, 'Cat’s Stone,' which gets its name because it’s believed that it resembles a cat, and if you study it closely, it does! I wonder did Ripley’s 'Stranger than fiction’ ever visit it? The Hill was believed by the ancient druids, to be the very navel of Ireland - the geographical centre - where the five provinces met! Look out on a fair day and see many of Ireland’s counties unfurl themselves before your eyes, like phantoms from out of the mystical mists and relax and see the smooth plains of Ireland’s midlands - smooth and uplifting, as if some bountiful cream was rubbed on the serene face of Ireland’s goddess, Eriu!

''The demesne of an Irish revolutionary''

'St Enda's': The Pearse Museum, St Enda’s, is located in a lovely demesne variously called 'The Grange’ or 'The Hermitage, where St Enda’s boys school was located. This museum is dedicated to the memory of Ireland’s renowned revolutionary poet, teacher and Gaelgeoir, Patrick Pearse, who led the 1916 rebellion and was executed for his role in this. The exhibition tells in a very interactive way, his life, his work, and the famous school that he established. It also allows you to see a number of rooms of the old school, which gives you more appreciation for the man, his dreams, his works and his vision.

''Nature havens flanking the Irish sea"

'Bull Island': Nature havens are lovely places but Bull Island is more - a nature reserve - a national nature and wildlife reserve of unspoilt peace and tranquility. Here you can look out at the Irish sea, see the wonderful Howth Peninsula in all its splendour, in the near distance, while walking at your leisure. But most of all, the island gets visits from more wildlife than any other part of Ireland per hectare of ground. You’ll see Buzzards and some Oyster catchers, insects and even mammals, as if in a royal hermitage of their own. Relax and sample the wonders all around this island on Dublin’s North coast.

''Take a plunge in the Marshes''

'Marsh's Library': For almost next to nothing, one can visit this library located at the start of Dublin’s Liberties. Its main calling card is its rather elongated corridor; it has a tremendous array of old books, many of which were bequeathed by Edward Stillingfleet. But amazingly, to read these books, one had to be caged in, lest one did a runner with the literary tome in one's hands! This can still be beheld and so is a real blast from the past! Indeed it would seem, that even Houdini would have been hard pressed to escape or extricate himself. Coupled with this, is the belief that the library is haunted by none other than its founder, Archbishop Marsh, still looking for the explanatory letter his niece left before running away with her lover! On a literary note, perhaps its most compelling feature, is seeing the original comments of Jonathan Swift, in the margins of some of its books. Take a plunge in the depths of Marsh’s.

''Swing the arc of plenty''

'Cong Abbey':

This place has something for everyone - it has a real charm and mystery all of its own. The Abbey - Augustinian - was an important one with lots of history but the fact that it is located in Cong makes it even more so, as Cong appears in much of Ireland’s legends and mythology. On a historical level, it's the place where that famous artefact of Ireland's national treasury was carved - the Cross of Cong; commissioned by Turlough O'Connor in 1123 and carved by Naoise with a part of the True Cross of Christ, according to tradition, and now in the National Museum of Archaeology. Moreover, the Abbey overlooks Lough Corrib - famous for its fly fishing - so if you like to swing the arc of plenty, fishing is just a bend of an arm away!

Right beside here, is also Cong Wood with a great mixture of Cypress, Redwood trees etc - these trees are so homely that you could take them home with you! The place was visited many times by WB Yeats in the 20’s and Oscar Wilde spent his childhood in the area (at Moytura house - the Wilde country home) so it has something for the literary lover too! So a quaint Abbey in an even quainter village surrounded by a lake and wood. If your shadow could become a living being, it would surely do so here, such is the wondrous energy of the place.

''Braveheart re-visited''

Trim Castle

Would you like to visit a castle which became part of 'Braveheart?' Yes, it was used in the filming of the blockbuster movie! As you approach, the stonework is so well constructed and the walls so impressively built, that you get a real feeling of Ireland in the Middle Ages; when you see all the turrets, you nearly feel that some Hawk eyes are peering out at you from the openings! For this is a real castle, and the Masons who built it, were craftsmen reaching for their place in history. And when you enter, you will feel the tides of history sweeping by; then look out at the beautiful River Boyne and you will feel like a priveleged member of a film club being given a sneak preview of the vistas of County Meath! If I were part of a real Star Trek crew, this castle would tempt me to transport back in time to the Middle Ages. On a more practical note, the guided tours last about an hour.

''Specialised interests''

'Fry Model Railway museum/ Malahide Castle':

Located on the grounds behind Malahide Castle, you can’t go wrong once you have found the castle. It is a novelty, I suppose, for people with specialised interests. Supposed to be one of the largest model railway museums in the world, in that the tracks are infinite like never ending corridors of pleasure. The number of model trains flying around these tracks is something to behold. It is a fun way to spend an hour but be warned, only go if you’re really into this thing and it’s one of your great hobbies, as it is expensive.

On a whimsical note, it reminds me a way a bit - albeit, on a far greater and bigger scale - of the train museum in Blennerville, outside Tralee in County Kerry! In addition, those who love real trains like the train excursions for tourists on the Isle of Man, would probably like this. All in all this place is a novelty, for those with specialised interests and the fact that it's located directly adjacent or to the rear of Malahide Castle, makes it have an interesting location.

Footnotes: Malahide Castle was the largest inhabited Castle in Ireland until 1973; occupied by the Talbot family. It's believed to be haunted by 13 ghosts of family members who fought on both sides during the Battle of the Boyne. There is a bizarre story of a painting disappearing and never been seen again! One wonders would any of those ghosts amuse themselves at night in the model railway museum! Perhaps there are even ghost model trains to be seen!

''Musings for tourists''

'The People's Garden's': These are lovely gardens full of very nice shrubbery, trees and flower beds. It’s unusual in that they part of a huge green belt of nature’s wonder, the Phoenix Park - largest enclosed park in Europe. The Gardens are a very pleasing outlet to take a leisurely walk or stroll in. But the name of them, say’s it all - gardens for the people - and that is their calling card! They also have the notable distinction, of being the place where Ireland’s fine balladeer and poet, Thomas Davis, sat under an Elm tree for inspiration; and where he helped co found the famous Nationalist newspaper 'The Nation’. If you go to the Phoenix Park, make sure and pay the gardens, a visit.