''In the midst of the Boyne Valley''

The Francis Ledwidge museum is a very good tribute and testimony to the life of this talented and scarcely known poet, who can rightly be described as the poet of the Boyne Valley. The museum is located in his cottage birthplace, just east of Slane on the Drogheda Road. Through exhibits of photos, texts of his poems, memorabilia, it narrates the life, works and poetry of Francis Ledwidge. It is a heartwarming place to visit - in the Unesco world heritage Boyne Valley - which does justice to the memory of the poet. In addition, it gives an insight into his motivations, his muse, why he joined the first World War, his short life, and his lovely romantic nature poetry. You will leave having been illuminated by the talent of Ledwidge, who was cut down in the trenches of Belgium.

''Musings for tourists again''

You may not be a church lover or think visiting a church is something for the morbid or nerdy type; if that is you, I challenge you to visit this church and be pleasantly surprised! Firstly, it has a rich history brimming with historical lore and entertaining and whimsical incidences which would almost amount to a chapter in themselves in a book of nostalgia and memories. The place where Ireland’s revolutionary, Wolfe Tone was married; where Oscar Wilde and Bram Stoker crossed paths - Oscar Wilde’s girlfriend at the time met Stoker there and ditched Oscar on the spot; and most recently where Nelson Mandela gave a speech.

But its the general design and layout which is so quaint and aesthetically pleasing; it features behind the altar, the curious and lovely place called 'The Bread Shelf’. There is always a loaf of bread here for a hungry person who needs it; this has been a continuous thread since the 1700s. It is also famous for some Gospel concerts in the evening where the great Ballymun Gospel choir and some great North American Gospel impresarios have appeared. Hear them belting out Jackie Wilson, Paul Robeson, Bob Marley and many others. St Ann’s church is a jewel with many diadems to its name. Oh and don’t miss its very nice coffee shop!

The Ballymun Gospel Choir in full voice and splendour - this gig had a 15 Euro admission but was well worth it!

''Dublin's charms''

This church - St Audeon's church of Ireland - is actually the oldest Parish church in Dublin; has the quirky coincidence of being next door to another St Audeon’s which is Catholic. Anyway… It has a very nice park within its grounds, has at least two hauntings withing its grounds - not to mention the clergyman who guards a wee monument, I'll mention in a moment - and to the rear, one can see part of the Old City Wall of Dublin - from medieval times. Of course, it is centred in the heart of Old Dublin, at the juncture of the Liberties etc. But housed in the Church - in the porch area - is a very unusual artefact which few people know about. It is called 'The Lucky Stone’ - a rival of the very famous Blarney Stone! But this is a stone with a difference! Dating from the middle ages, it was believed to be a kind of head stone of a religious cleric buried in the graveyard but it is the legend that has grown up around it, that’s most interesting. In the middle ages, merchant traders and business men would come to it as a daily ritual to elicit luck from its stony mass. Despite being the victim of theft, strangely disappearing on a number of occasions to God knows where, even falling off a horse, when someone tried to take off with it, it has still mysteriously turned up in St Audeon’s - come rain or hail - and has now remained there since being retrieved for the last time circa 1830 by that famous antiquarian priest, Father John Spratt - its true home! Legend says that you merely rub off it, instead of kissing it! St Audeon’s church is one of Dublin’s most charming and interesting churches which offers you a free guided tour of its site - a stone’s throw from Christchurch.

''The longest pub in Ireland''

This pub, on Blackhorse Avenue, is a gem of Dublin and is the longest pub in Ireland! It’s long, gallery-like layout giving it an intimate feeling, as if one is in a cave of some sort; with nice decor, nice bar design, staff and indeed food! But what makes it a rare collector’s item - an unknown and hidden jewel - is the origin of its name: it actually acquires its name because in bygone eras, the British Army, in order to have a pint, would climb or clamber through a hole in the wall of the herculean Phoenix Park (outside of which, the pub is located!) And still today this quirky fact and amusing way of access is still there to be sampled and negociated…This pub is an unmissable piece of heritage and history and pub design woven into one. Have a peep in the hole in the wall!!

''Irish pub's - lasting character''

'The Patriot Inn' is an Historical pub par excellence in a very old part of Dublin - Kilmainham, around one of the seven Liberties. The pub has an unchanged feel about it, a timelessness, hasn’t encountered the vicissitudes of many pubs. It’s also been a witness to Irish history, just beside the famous Kilmainham jail, now a museum; has been part of many historical events, which revolved around the prison. The very real signs of this are evident, when you walk in - the walls are adorned with some original and unique photos - b & w’s of many of those very events. It could be described as a real photo gallery of Ireland's past. Whether history buff or not, this pub has the credentials of an Irish pub - character - for which there's no substitute!

As a footnote, the fact that the pub is sited at what was known in the 1700's as Gallow's Hill - where a Gallows was sited - makes it even more appropriate. Not only does it have history within its walls but history all around and without!

www.patriotsinn.com

''Howth's wonder''

Howth Head

The Summit or Howth Head is a place of great serenity and tranquility. At the furthest point of Howth Peninsula - which has one third of the total of Ireland’s flora - the Summit has been the haunt of many people throughout the ages and still today gets its hikers, families on Sundays, nature and wildlife lovers, etc. The
Lighthouse - the Bailey Lighthouse - moved from its original position, is a famous landmark and is a perpetual
beacon welcoming sea travellers on the Ferry coming into Dun Laoghaire or was the last bright spark for many a soul who left the old sod never to return; its famous light would flash as if ensuring that the flame of memory would reside deep in their heart forever.

The Summit Walk going along the Cliff face with the Baily Lighthouse in the distance

To gaze out over Dublin Bay and see the many vistas unveil themselves before your eyes is an uplifting event. Follow in the footsteps of those for whom it has acted as a muse - literary giant James Joyce used it as his setting in some of his literary works, notably Molly Bloom's soliloquy; in particular, Ireland’s Nobel Laureate WB Yeats, whilst he lived in Howth (Balscadden House) in the 1880’s was known to use it. Moreover, Brendan Behan called it the "Healthiest place in Ireland". So drink in its sweet air, behold its views, follow in the footsteps of scores of souls through the continuum of time, and feel the ancient poetic essence of the place as they have done.

Balscadden House - the home of WB Yeats in the 1880's; at the start of the climb to the summit.

www.howthismagic.com

''Hidden gems of Dublin''

'The Furry Glen': A lovely, enchanting Glen, in the far corner of the awesome Phoenix Park. The Glen is an idyllic wee place, to go with the family on a nice sunny day. You’ll see sprite-like fleet footed squirrels going creepy crawly and other nice furry creatures and wildlife IF YOU'RE LUCKY! There is also a tiny bat called a Pipistrelle in the vicinity - weighing a gargantuan 5 mg; 'though I've yet to see it (I'll have to take residence in the Park, I think!). The Glen is yet another piece in the fabric, that is the Phoenix Park; it claims its own niche. Oh and there was even a ballad written to immortalise it. Yet another hidden gem in the great expanse of the Phoenix Park.

Approaching the Furry Glen from the reservoir type pond.

Knockmary Cromleck:

A Cist Grave located beside the Park Ranger's Lodge ( the Park Ranger has lived there for over 30 years - wow! - a very endearing and approachable man). There was a second grave found beside Chapelizod Gate, which was moved to Dublin Zoo. According to the Park Ranger, the human remains were taken away from the graves - as to where they were taken, your guess is as good as mine! This one is very idylically located in a beautiful place beside the Lodge and directly across from the Cara Cheshire Home. It has lovely vantage points all round. And I love to have a meditation beside it and have my lunch there!

This is demonstrative proof that the Park has been inhabited from neolithic times. According to local Dublin mythology, the Fir Bolg settled in the vicinity of the Park. So a hidden attraction within the nature reserve and green haven, that is the Phoenix Park!

Knockmary Cromleck with trees in background and Lodge Fence to the left.

''The essence of WB Yeats''

'Yeat's Memorial Buiding': If you want to do a tour of Yeats Country, then this is the place to start. Run by the volunteers of the Yeats Society, you will be initiated into the essence of Ireland’s famous poet laureate. See original manuscripts of his poems, rare and seminal photos of the poet, his relatives and his beloved Sligo. Feel your pulse racing to the heartbeat and hypnotic rhythm of his profound verse; feel the cream of the wordsmith’s rhymes inebriate you like the bubbling waterfalls of Glencar or the rich summit of a pint of Guinness. Start your journey here and maybe the Faery will take you by the hand to the mythical Tir na Nog of ancient Ireland.

www.sligotourism.com

''The heart and soul of Ireland''

'Hill of Uisneach': If you want to get to the heart and soul of Ireland, you must visit this place - about five miles east of Ballymore on the way to Mullingar. In many ways, it is the twin of the more famous Hill of Tara. Its main feature is the most unusual, 'Cat’s Stone,' which gets its name because it’s believed that it resembles a cat, and if you study it closely, it does! I wonder did Ripley’s 'Stranger than fiction’ ever visit it? The Hill was believed by the ancient druids, to be the very navel of Ireland - the geographical centre - where the five provinces met! Look out on a fair day and see many of Ireland’s counties unfurl themselves before your eyes, like phantoms from out of the mystical mists and relax and see the smooth plains of Ireland’s midlands - smooth and uplifting, as if some bountiful cream was rubbed on the serene face of Ireland’s goddess, Eriu!

''The demesne of an Irish revolutionary''

'St Enda's': The Pearse Museum, St Enda’s, is located in a lovely demesne variously called 'The Grange’ or 'The Hermitage, where St Enda’s boys school was located. This museum is dedicated to the memory of Ireland’s renowned revolutionary poet, teacher and Gaelgeoir, Patrick Pearse, who led the 1916 rebellion and was executed for his role in this. The exhibition tells in a very interactive way, his life, his work, and the famous school that he established. It also allows you to see a number of rooms of the old school, which gives you more appreciation for the man, his dreams, his works and his vision.

''Nature havens flanking the Irish sea"

'Bull Island': Nature havens are lovely places but Bull Island is more - a nature reserve - a national nature and wildlife reserve of unspoilt peace and tranquility. Here you can look out at the Irish sea, see the wonderful Howth Peninsula in all its splendour, in the near distance, while walking at your leisure. But most of all, the island gets visits from more wildlife than any other part of Ireland per hectare of ground. You’ll see Buzzards and some Oyster catchers, insects and even mammals, as if in a royal hermitage of their own. Relax and sample the wonders all around this island on Dublin’s North coast.

''Take a plunge in the Marshes''

'Marsh's Library': For almost next to nothing, one can visit this library located at the start of Dublin’s Liberties. Its main calling card is its rather elongated corridor; it has a tremendous array of old books, many of which were bequeathed by Edward Stillingfleet. But amazingly, to read these books, one had to be caged in, lest one did a runner with the literary tome in one's hands! This can still be beheld and so is a real blast from the past! Indeed it would seem, that even Houdini would have been hard pressed to escape or extricate himself. Coupled with this, is the belief that the library is haunted by none other than its founder, Archbishop Marsh, still looking for the explanatory letter his niece left before running away with her lover! On a literary note, perhaps its most compelling feature, is seeing the original comments of Jonathan Swift, in the margins of some of its books. Take a plunge in the depths of Marsh’s.

''Swing the arc of plenty''

'Cong Abbey':

This place has something for everyone - it has a real charm and mystery all of its own. The Abbey - Augustinian - was an important one with lots of history but the fact that it is located in Cong makes it even more so, as Cong appears in much of Ireland’s legends and mythology. On a historical level, it's the place where that famous artefact of Ireland's national treasury was carved - the Cross of Cong; commissioned by Turlough O'Connor in 1123 and carved by Naoise with a part of the True Cross of Christ, according to tradition, and now in the National Museum of Archaeology. Moreover, the Abbey overlooks Lough Corrib - famous for its fly fishing - so if you like to swing the arc of plenty, fishing is just a bend of an arm away!

Right beside here, is also Cong Wood with a great mixture of Cypress, Redwood trees etc - these trees are so homely that you could take them home with you! The place was visited many times by WB Yeats in the 20’s and Oscar Wilde spent his childhood in the area (at Moytura house - the Wilde country home) so it has something for the literary lover too! So a quaint Abbey in an even quainter village surrounded by a lake and wood. If your shadow could become a living being, it would surely do so here, such is the wondrous energy of the place.

''Braveheart re-visited''

Trim Castle

Would you like to visit a castle which became part of 'Braveheart?' Yes, it was used in the filming of the blockbuster movie! As you approach, the stonework is so well constructed and the walls so impressively built, that you get a real feeling of Ireland in the Middle Ages; when you see all the turrets, you nearly feel that some Hawk eyes are peering out at you from the openings! For this is a real castle, and the Masons who built it, were craftsmen reaching for their place in history. And when you enter, you will feel the tides of history sweeping by; then look out at the beautiful River Boyne and you will feel like a priveleged member of a film club being given a sneak preview of the vistas of County Meath! If I were part of a real Star Trek crew, this castle would tempt me to transport back in time to the Middle Ages. On a more practical note, the guided tours last about an hour.

''Specialised interests''

'Fry Model Railway museum/ Malahide Castle':

Located on the grounds behind Malahide Castle, you can’t go wrong once you have found the castle. It is a novelty, I suppose, for people with specialised interests. Supposed to be one of the largest model railway museums in the world, in that the tracks are infinite like never ending corridors of pleasure. The number of model trains flying around these tracks is something to behold. It is a fun way to spend an hour but be warned, only go if you’re really into this thing and it’s one of your great hobbies, as it is expensive.

On a whimsical note, it reminds me a way a bit - albeit, on a far greater and bigger scale - of the train museum in Blennerville, outside Tralee in County Kerry! In addition, those who love real trains like the train excursions for tourists on the Isle of Man, would probably like this. All in all this place is a novelty, for those with specialised interests and the fact that it's located directly adjacent or to the rear of Malahide Castle, makes it have an interesting location.

Footnotes: Malahide Castle was the largest inhabited Castle in Ireland until 1973; occupied by the Talbot family. It's believed to be haunted by 13 ghosts of family members who fought on both sides during the Battle of the Boyne. There is a bizarre story of a painting disappearing and never been seen again! One wonders would any of those ghosts amuse themselves at night in the model railway museum! Perhaps there are even ghost model trains to be seen!

''Musings for tourists''

'The People's Garden's': These are lovely gardens full of very nice shrubbery, trees and flower beds. It’s unusual in that they part of a huge green belt of nature’s wonder, the Phoenix Park - largest enclosed park in Europe. The Gardens are a very pleasing outlet to take a leisurely walk or stroll in. But the name of them, say’s it all - gardens for the people - and that is their calling card! They also have the notable distinction, of being the place where Ireland’s fine balladeer and poet, Thomas Davis, sat under an Elm tree for inspiration; and where he helped co found the famous Nationalist newspaper 'The Nation’. If you go to the Phoenix Park, make sure and pay the gardens, a visit.